Designer Bishme Cromartie — the most recent winner of the fashion reality show “Project Runway All Stars” — debuted his Fall/Winter 2024 collection on Feb. 13 at The Ritz-Carlton in NoMad.

Entitled “Batrix,” the collection was a masterclass on “street garde,” which Cromartie defined in the show’s program as a blending of streetwear and avant-garde aesthetics. The garments center around a red, white and black color palette, spanning a variety of masculine, feminine and androgynous silhouettes. From structured houndstooth coats to ruffled, tulle ball gowns, this collection wasn’t afraid to go beyond the boundaries of theming.

Cromartie’s more masculine coat pieces were a testament to his innovative design, as he took a new approach to the construction of outerwear. While the angular, off-the-shoulder structure was common across his pieces, each look was unique in its use of contrasting materials and overall styling. A standout look was a cropped black coat with puffy sleeves, paired with an asymetrical white and gray tweed skirt. While not as dramatic as other looks, the play on contrasting textures meshed perfectly with the unique silhouette. 

The gowns were a twist on Hollywood glamor, combining the elegance of classic silhouettes with edgy cutouts and structured bodices. The collection’s heavy usage of tulle added a touch of whimsy to these otherwise sleek and sexy looks. 

While avant-garde fashion is typically impractical as everyday clothing, the addition of street-wear makes this new hybrid fashion more approachable. Cromartie’s designs are not only pieces of art, but they are also garments that can be worn and utilized.

Contact Shiphrah Moses at [email protected].