“It’s a new dawn, it’s a new day / It’s a new life for me” — Nina Simone’s “Feeling Good” thundered through Nebula New York as singer Amber Iman opened Frederick Anderson’s Fall/Winter 2026 runway titled “This is the perfect time for the blues.” Draped in a black top and sheer metallic-fringed skirt, Iman’s powerful voice commanded the room, setting the stage for a collection that carried a similar promise of renewal.
Tweed and chantilly lace took center stage as models walked down three parallel runways primarily in black, blue and green. Anderson said his 34-piece collection was designed for the female gaze, inspired by women painting the town in black going-out dresses and finding enjoyment in the club despite the turmoil beyond its walls.
“I wanted to write a story about finding strength in all the blackness,” Anderson told WSN. “We’re in a black time, and you can find an inner strength in that. Throughout the collection, there’s all these layers and different fabrications that layer on top. It’s all in the details and it’s all for the woman to enjoy. It isn’t for everyone.”
What stood out in Anderson’s collection was the abundance of sheer designs, contrasted with sharp, geometric cutouts and appliques. The show began with a series of all-black looks before models in blue tweed took the runway. Greens and nude tones dominated the second half, ending with a brilliant, mirrorball-eqsue white suit. Attendee and designer Terry Singh said that he admired how Anderson repurposed the same materials for several unique looks.
“I love the buildup,” Singh said. “I’ve been to quite a few of Frederick’s shows, and I’ve learned that he storytells — and reinforces it so you get to see it again. It leaves an impression as you see it again in different ways.”
The opening song was followed by upbeat, ’60s-inspired tunes like Raye’s “WHERE IS MY HUSBAND!” and Simone’s “Ain’t Got No, I Got Life.” The models’ hair and makeup reflected the music’s spunky attitude, with sharp, thick eyeliner and tall, Amy Winehouse-inspired hair bumps.
“They wanted to go back to the old club vibe — the heavy eye, the big hair,” model Anna Aufdenkamp told WSN. “He made the playlist before the collection was even done, because he wanted to get in that vibe. That’s why you saw a lot of black dresses and a lot of see-through — he just wanted to take it back.”
Joy has been a recurring theme in Anderson’s collections, most recently appearing in his vibrant Spring/Summer 2026 show. For his Spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection, Anderson also drew inspiration from clubbing culture, capturing the light of Africa’s nightlife scene.
Many of Anderson’s looks distilled the natural world into the glimmer and sequins of club couture. A shimmery blue dress moved like a waterfall with each step, while a cropped jacket with matching pants in bright green leaf-pattered lace complemented a chantilly lace camisole to evoke a serene jungle.
The looks’ intricate layers intertwined to create a bold collection that stood out from today’s fashion landscape. A focal point of “This is the perfect time for the blues” was the “Carmela” look, an embroidered tulle dress with an entirely see-through bodice. Its metallic fringe called back to Iman’s look during her opening number, and the sheer top underscored the creative freedom Anderson is unafraid to let run wild.
To keep his production running, Anderson has over 60 interns working his shows, primarily students from prominent New York City fashion schools like the Fashion Institute of Technology and The New School’s Parsons School of Design. For Anderson, nurturing the next generation of designers is a necessity.
“I’m the king of interns,” Anderson said. “I make them work and be part of the experience because I hope one day I’m going to their shows. We all have to keep energizing and bringing new voices because without that we will go silent.”
Contact Krish Dev and Kiran Komanduri at [email protected].