Paula Knorr F/W 2018

Sophie Shaw, Editor-at-Large

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Paula Knorr’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection consisted of clingy, bias cut dresses and separates that hugged the body. The close-cut silhouettes underlined the theme of female sensuality and power that Knorr centered her collection around.

Silver sequined dresses and tops with extra long sleeves brought a disco vibe to the collection. The lengthy sleeves were complemented by other drapey elements like skirts that gathered to one side to create a cascade of fabric or full-length wide leg pants with layers of material that fell ruffle-like over the front.

While there were some pieces in sheer glittery tulle, sensuality was not equated with revealing the body. Nearly all of the necklines were a turtleneck, except for a couple one shoulder and strapless options, but even those did not reveal much. This modesty was made festive by the velvets, metallics and sequins that the pieces were cut from. Along with the abundance of silver, there were light blue and bordeaux hues that added just enough color.

Knorr also collaborated with experimental jazz singer Laura Totenhagen who stood among the models, giving a musical interpretation of empowering female poetry. This, along with a diverse cast of models, was supposed to celebrate women, according to show notes. However, there were but two out of 10 women of color modeling, and one woman above the average age range of the other models — if a truly diverse cast was intended, it was not present. Celebrating female strength and power is important and worthwhile, but it’s clear that fashion is still working on including all women in that representation.

 

Email Sophie Shaw at [email protected]