Upon entering the open, bare-bones Soho space of Berenik’s Spring/Summer 2017 show, the first noticeable detail was the runway. Made with a digital cloudscape print by Jack Hardwicke, it helped transport the audience to Veronika Brusa’s dreamstate before the show even began. Using neutral and soft colors and mesmerizing live music by Bit Tuner which started mystical and grew in intensity, Brusa didn’t create just a fashion show; she made a work of performance art.
The looks were loose and casual, comparable to previous collections, but notably more feminine. Silky fabrics constituted most pieces. Models wore casual shoes ranging from sneakers to loafers, but the colorful makeup smeared across the face and free, often-wild hairstyles made sure the overall look was anything but average.
Many of the looks, due to the heavy use of neutrals and basic shapes, were minimalist. This let some monochromatic styles which may typically blend into another show stand out. A model with a platinum pixie cut looked effortlessly cool in an all-black outfit which included a strappy bralette, an asymmetrical sheer top, loosely fitting pants, and square sunglasses. Sneakers with a pop of pink pulled it all together, and the look as a whole is wearable, especially for the cool New Yorker.
Despite the minimalist clothing, the experience was anything but. Martha Williams did choreography for the show, and models would stop mid-runway to show off their looks. After the final walk, instead of returning backstage, the cast laid down as if they were dreaming, creating a unique, fascinating photo op.
Berenik has only been around for four years and showing at New York Fashion Week for two, but the brand’s wearable designs and artistic originality are sure to help it quickly rise in popularity. Fans of upscale basics could soon be rocking this season’s Berenik look in droves, as it allows them to experiment with dreamy, imaginative prints and fabrics without straying too far from their aesthetics.
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