Click for more looks from Sukeina Spring/Summer 2014.

Sukeina by Omar Salam’s Spring/Summer show, labeled “Porcelain,” lived up to its namesake as delicate fabrics and tailoring combined to create a structured yet soft line, exploring the idea of movement and its variations.

The audience was seated in a high-ceilinged, wood-paneled room with simple lighting, the runway being an empty wooden space outlined by the filled seats. Calming sounds of nature played as a man’s voice read an excerpt from Maya Angelou’s “Letter to my Daughter,” introducing the show, and repeating throughout. Rhythmic drumming cued the entrance of the first looks, and each model appeared to have a purposeful slow, smooth walk, and a strong arched back. This movement added sensuality to the defined structured forms that Salam has presented in many of his past lines.

Soft geometric draping was paired with a strong square shoulder in many pieces, including jackets, coats and dresses, as a wide leg trouser added movement and flow to the model’s walk. Classic shapes such as a pencil skirt, blazer, and trench, were transformed into items of movement through the addition of structured drapery of the shoulder and hip.

Perhaps in order to highlight the strength of the pieces, minimalist makeup was chosen. Tight, slicked-back hair was paired with soft black eyes, dewy skin, and glossy lips to form a soft natural look.

Though Salam seems to favor blacks, whites, and neutrals in his designs, a minimal amount of pattern was used. Soft, delicate scarf-like fabrics were draped into plunging neckline tops, and paneled into the more structured pieces, such as the collar of a trench, or the sides of the skirts.

But the stand-out pieces were the sheer-paneled garments Salam presented towards the end of the show. Combining a structured hip with alternating opaque and sheer white fabrics, an essence of soft structure, and multiple levels of movement were seen in one look, forming an interesting and innovative take on the lighter styles typically seen in spring trends.

Dana Reszutek is a staff writer. Email her at [email protected].