The PatBO Fall/Winter 2022 show did not disappoint. Its location, in the main lobby of the Surrogate’s Courthouse in Tribeca, set the scene for the show: elegant, flashy and rich in detail. Lush green leaves accented the historic space, which was lined with rows of seats topped with Cattleya orchids, the national flower of Brazil — an homage to designer Patricia Bonaldi’s native country.

The show was divided into a series of colors. First, the audience was presented with a sequence of white looks, beginning with a sheer bodysuit embellished with rhinestones and paired with an oversized white quilted jacket. Next was a similar sheer long-sleeve top and beaded jeans. The theme of this collection was sparkle, and the looks featured strategically placed cut-outs and glittering beads. There were many matching sets, tiny tops and exposed cut-outs — the signature look of the brand.

“I loved all of the details. The sequins, the glamor [and] the walks were incredible. There was a lot of high energy, elegance, class, and a little bit of seductive cutouts,” model Veronika Collins said. 

Next came an array of black: mini dresses, a jumpsuit, a bodysuit, and a two-piece set that stood out from the rest — consisting of a black triangle bra and tight pants covered in a pattern of rhinestones, and white beaded tassels that contrasted with the black fabric.

The show continued with sparkling silver and pale pink ensembles, but was suddenly interrupted by a floor-length sheer floral dress with a high leg slit — the only patterned garment in the collection.

After the floral dress, the color palette brightened, with a series of intricately embellished purple dresses with cutouts around the waist, a salmon velvet quilted robe, and an impressive sparkling dark teal tracksuit with a V-shaped line of frayed crystals on the hood. The show then came full circle, by finishing with a sheer crystal dress with fringe and cutouts.

The collection’s outerwear designs were particularly interesting. A knee-length silver quilted jacket was covered in tassels and sequins, and looked like the perfect statement coat — the sort of thing Dua Lipa would wear while strutting through Manhattan.

“I love jackets, and those giant coats were everything to me,” said dancer, singer and influencer Asia Monet Ray, who attended the show.

The show had an exclusive guest list, many of whom were influencers dressed by the brand itself. Influencer Avrey Ovard wore a PatBO ruffled floor-length white gown with an exposed back, contrasted with a large velvet black bow in her hair and black Nodaleto heels.

“[The show] was amazing. It was so beautiful, I loved the color palette, it went with the whole entire theme of the building,” Ovard said.

This collection stood out from the label’s previous designs. Rather than the bold prints we’ve come to expect from PatBO, this season’s collection was characterized by rich colors and plenty of sparkle, reminiscent of New York City-based brand AREA.

As impressed as I was with the tantalizing silhouettes and hand beadwork that rustled as the models walked the runway, I couldn’t help but notice the brand’s shift away from its original aesthetic. I would love to see more of Patricia Bonaldi represented in her designs, and in particular, her Brazilian heritage. Unfortunately, the fashion industry still lacks a diversity of perspectives, and Bonaldi’s is an important one. PatBO’s innovative pieces pave the way for a new generation of elegance.

Contact Ari Armand at [email protected].