On East 13th Street between University Place and Fifth Avenue, a short, stout storefront draws the eye with its muted-cream facade, warm wood paneling and a sharp white awning with subtle red lettering that spells out Rulin. Inside, behind a glass window facing the dining room, a chef stretches and whips strands of dough into the air with rhythmic precision — it’s part performance, part craft, making it impossible not to stop and stare. The space’s minimalist, chic atmosphere makes it feel more like an upscale bistro, but Rulin is grounded in hospitality.

Opened in late January, Rulin marks co-owner Lane Li’s second restaurant venture. After pivoting from a career in finance, Li opened this spot with her husband, Chris Wang, naming the spot after their son and expanding on the vision behind her Brooklyn restaurant, Noodle Lane. 

“It really was more of a challenge because I knew nothing about hand-pulling noodles,” Li told WSN. “I just love noodles and I really wanted the challenge, like a bigger stage.”

With over a decade in the industry, Li understands both the creative and operational sides of the restaurant world. The blocks just north of NYU are ripe with Chinese restaurants, including Lao Ma Spicy and Xi’an Famous Foods, but Li hopes that Rulin will stand out by offering students and residents a variety of takes on a dish typically associated with one region while still maintaining the feel of a local neighborhood joint.

At first glance, its prices might make some students hesitate, but that will subside once the dishes arrive. For example, the Sichuan noodle soup ($28) feels like the kind of dish you come back for. It carries a gentle spice — noticeable but not aggressive — and goes down easy. Its pickle-based broth is warm and soothing, with the flavors and spice of Sichuan peppercorn gradually building on your tongue. The tender chicken is balanced by the strong flavors, creating a bowl that tastes like a home-cooked meal rather than something designed to impress.

When the waiter brought the noodle soup, he said that the broth had been simmered for days, giving it the best possible flavor. Additionally, for all of Rulin’s noodle-based dishes, customers can choose between regular- or medium-width hand-pulled noodles.

The dry Dan Dan noodles ($26), on the other hand, arrive lightly coated in a savory sauce, but its real flavor gathers toward the bottom of the bowl, where an aromatic broth resides. The chili oil is a must if you like spice, bringing heat without overpowering the dish and tying everything together. The noodles themselves are chewy and satisfying, though fair warning: If you’re not confident with chopsticks, this might not be the moment to test your skills.

Rulin also offers a variety of grilled skewers at more affordable prices. The chicken thigh skewer ($5) is small yet deeply satisfying. Thoroughly flavored with cumin and chili flakes, the meat is smoky and peppery with just enough chew. The spices don’t overwhelm but rather accompany the taste, drawing you back in bite after bite. 

“I try to let the ingredients shine, and I don’t want to overpower them with a lot of spices,” Li said. “There’s a little bit of a range on the menu. I want people to be happy, enjoy their food and really appreciate Chinese food for its complexity.”

For most students, Rulin is probably better suited for a celebratory dinner after exams, a hearty meal with visiting family or simply a night when comfort outweighs convenience. At a time when the city’s dining culture is increasingly defined by exclusivity and impossible-to-get reservations, the promise of warmth may be exactly what sets Rulin apart.

“Students who are away from home want to have a taste of home and comfort,” Li said. “When people come here, they feel comfortable.”

Contact Parker Osborne at [email protected].