New York University's independent student newspaper, established in 1973.

Washington Square News

New York University's independent student newspaper, established in 1973.

Washington Square News

New York University's independent student newspaper, established in 1973.

Washington Square News

Haute couture touched by Spanish roots at Paris Fashion Week

In Juana Martín’s “La Rosée” collection, a floral theme blends with the latest trends of the season.
Gia Sidhu
(Gia Sidhu for WSN)

PARIS – At Juana Martín’s haute couture Fall/Winter 2024 show, guests entered underneath the infamous inverted pyramid in the Carrousel du Louvre carousel. The catwalk in the Louvre’s mall had been turned into a blank canvas of white and silver, reflecting the designer’s monochrome color palette. The delicate environment set the expectation for an elegant and elevated show.

Martín is a Spanish designer with Andalusian roots. The Juana Martín brand was created in 1999, but it was not until 2022 that it was included in the haute couture shows of Paris Fashion Week. She has been open about the influence of her cultural background on her designs, which led her to be the first Spanish designer recognized by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

The show began with orchestral music, and the models descended the catwalk. The models were dressed in black and white, adorned with silver flower decorations and headpieces and escorted down the staircase by men in suits. The background music gave the impression of a futuristic wedding.

Despite some issues with headpieces and congestion at the bottom of the stairs, the models looked whimsical and elegant with the large ornamental flowers framing their bodies. The structure of the outfits were beautiful and feminine, with long lace dresses or flowy silk contrasting well with heavy blazers and large hoods. Everything was black, white and silver with the exception of a few beige woven dresses. The collection featured a blend of the latest trends like micro shorts, large bows and oversized silhouettes and headwear.

A collage of three photographs. The model on the left wears a sheer dress, a black blazer and a cage headpiece. The middle photo shows the model wearing a white netted shawl and a long black cape. The model on the right wears a white sheer dress and a large bow.
(Gia Sidhu for WSN)

Martín’s collection was inspired by her cultural roots. In an interview with the FHCM, she said that this collection was inspired by spring, “looking to nature and also to the feeling that transmits the Spanish spring.”

The show’s finale received high praise. One audience member, personal stylist Marina Ukharskikh, called Juana Martín’s collection “the haute couture of today” and described it as “élevé.”

Saeh Duval, a styling assistant and magazine correspondent, expressed his excitement for the show and admiration for Martín’s work, particularly because she is one of the only Spanish designers featured in Paris Fashion Week.

“This fashion week, there are a lot of international designers who come to Paris to show their culture,” Duval said. “I love it, I love how we can explore the Spanish culture. At Martín’s last show, there was a heavy reference to Pablo Picasso.”

Martín’s innovative designs are part of the modern wave of haute couture that is now opening its doors to designers outside of Paris. Haute couture is evolving as designers like Martín incorporate aspects of their own cultural background into their designs for an authentic and refreshing take on the classic haute couture fashion week.

Contact Nicola Verani at [email protected].

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