NYMD Fall/Winter 2016

David Bologna

New York Men’s Day once again produced a showcase full of presentations catering to the wide variety of styles popular in men’s fashion today. From the masculine silhouettes of Hvrminn to the playful cool of CWST and Lucio Castro, this season’s collections did not fail to sustain the crescendo of the millennial menswear scene.

For those faithful to the classics, Robert James and Hvrminn displayed reliable collections for those who favor an understated look. Robert James’ sophisticated lounge chic looks included easy outwear like fur-trimmed jackets in leopard and all black, accessories like the wide-brimmed hat (a trend to continue into the following year), and loads of leather. Jackets and low collars in supple black leather were particularly noteworthy. Hvrminn’s army-inspired season featured tailoring in true 20th century style. A fitted pants-and-suspender combo with a tight top all in neutral tones stood out along with heavy outerwear in militant hues of black, beige and blue.

The casual metropolitan look from Matiere was again displayed in new fabrics from the brand that focuses primarily on textiles. Collarless bombers and modern Harrington jackets paired well with knitwear cowl necks in cashmere. Jogger pants kept the collection grounded in its modern streetwear tropes.

Similarly street-ready direct from the runway was Chapter’s nod to the nineties era of ska and CWST’s counter culture garb. Dropped rise-pants were tapered yet full while accented to perfection with barely-there pocket chains at Chapter. Chunky black and white plaid appeared in wool concoctions of pants, shorts and more at CWST. Cashmere and wool knits in signature black highlighted Chapter’s attention to detail in simplicity while its statement color of dark emerald green fit just right this season on tops and outerwear. CWST’s fairly lax silhouettes along with fur and knitwear accents on the likes of sleeves lent a hint of androgyny to the collection, keeping it edgy enough for 2016. Frayed hemlines also proved that they’re here to stay.

Lucio Castro by far stole the show with his UK-inspired Stonehenge Collection full of perfect pieces for next season’s most forward dressers. Feminine turtlenecks in powder blue, acid green, and pale pink lay anything but silent beneath masculine structures of button-ups and bombers. Plaid prints in wool returned as an accent along with paisley and a space dye pattern reminiscent of the ’90s. Culottes are fair Fall game again as the collection styled a pair in green and black plaid with everything from turtlenecks to matching varsity jackets. The best accessory though was definitely the enlarged pocket chain in countless colors of stone, incorporating the element as a reference to the collection’s namesake.

Email David Bologna at [email protected]

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