Japanese menswear brand N. Hoolywood delivered a collection of contemporary touchstones for Fall/Winter 2015. Entering the show, the venue was shrouded in darkness, only to be lit up to the drone of industrial noise in a blinding flash of light, giving the aesthetic of a hospital ward. This dystopian starkness was complemented by the models’ piercing stares as they marched like soldiers in some pristine alternate reality.

The clothes, however, weren’t so obviously futuristic. The turtleneck proved a dominant motif, supporting the notion that the often-maligned style is indeed making a comeback. The presentation saw the style through many iterations.

From chunky patterned knits (sartorially-acceptable versions of the Christmas sweater) to heavy thick coats that zip to the top. This style of coats were best represented by a white shearling version that could easily take on New York City’s current diabolically cold temperatures.

In terms of color, white, black, and blue dominated. However, pops of brighter colors such as an orange, inside-out-looking bomber and a slouchy red-white-and-blue patterned knit add a hint of laid-back vintage style. If it weren’t for the soundtrack, some of these pieces would not look out of place in a well-stocked thrift store.

These kinds of looks were juxtaposed with more obviously future-focused pieces, particularly the white and black ice-crystal patterns that adorn some of the sweaters and outerwear. The use of abstract prints updated the vintage-inspired styles, bringing the winter knits firmly into the now.

The footwear is also not to be missed. The most prominent resembled a desert boot reinterpreted for a lunar landing. The familiar silhouette is elevated on a substantial platform with a toothed bottom and seen in both white and black colors.

Another footwear choice was the long-trending New Balance. New Balance has often been critiqued as a fashion misfire but it’s use here proves that, like the turtleneck, it is having a moment of resurrected cool.

Overall, the collection’s interplay of dark and dorky, supported by a matching soundtrack and backdrop, makes for a topical and cohesive vision. Perhaps turtlenecks and New Balance really are where it’s at.

Email Sam Del Rowe at [email protected]