Above the airy floors of Daylight Studio on the morning of Feb. 10, a party had just begun. Models flaunted their labels’ newest, boldest designs across showrooms enveloped in high ceilings and crowds of attendees gathering for New York Men’s Day on the first day of the 2023 Fall/Winter New York Fashion Week.
NYMD: New and old brands alike reimagine the future of menswear
During New York Men’s Day, labels explored new definitions of menswear and gender-neutral clothing, breaking conventions with bold colors and audacious designs.
Feb 13, 2023
NYMD, a biannual collective fashion initiative, was created by Agentry PR founder Erin Hawker in 2014. This year’s fashion show marked the 19th season of the program’s effort to highlight emerging talent and catalyze exposure for menswear and gender-fluid fashion. Each season, brands showcase their collections over two-hour periods, granting buyers and media alike spatial freedom as they make their way through the rooms at their own speed.
This year, NYMD featured 12 brands, including six new menswear or genderless clothing lines and four returning brands. Compared to traditional runway shows, the showroom presentation proved to be more intimate. The morning show featured clothing from seven studios, including NYMD sponsors CROSS EYED MOOSE and Nobis, along with returning labels such as A.Potts and Atelier Cillian.
CROSS EYED MOOSE made its debut in a flurry of earth tones, puffers and cargos. Appealing to lovers of the great outdoors while remaining ever-polished, their collection was powerful in its ability to reimagine and embody gorpcore.
One model wore a blue button-down layered over a neon yellow turtleneck, with flecks of yellow on the unbuttoned top drawing the eye to the brightness underneath. Browns, greens and nude tones blended with vibrant colors in a satisfying strike of hues that melted coolly into each outfit. Each color palette was complemented by small accents, such as neon orange drawstrings on a camo puffer that matched orange cargo pants or white steampunk sunglasses that matched the shade of the model’s boots.
Another brand with an outstanding debut this year was all beneath heaven, an organic, gender-neutral, Los Angeles-based brand designed by Jimmy Alexander. In front of a backdrop of mirrored panels, Alexander’s pieces refused to stay still. The models were dancing, making gestures and interacting with each other, with the motion paralleling their outfits. All beneath heaven was all things whimsical, with vivacious colors in a variety of prints and fabrics topped off with bright face paints and orange ankle-high toe socks.
Drastically different from the almost whimsical, poetic nature of all beneath heaven was Kent Anthony’s concise but elegant black and nude collection, featuring snug-fitting dress pants, peacoats and leather loafers. One model was draped in a waist-length cotton two-piece with folds hemmed on the sides as well as a big collar, which accentuated their figure and drew attention to their broadened shoulders. By completing the look with high-waisted jeans and two straps of fabric flowing down from the inner shirt, Anthony proves that shape doesn’t need to be boring.
Returning brands were bold in their deliverance. A.Potts, established by The New School’s Parsons School of Design graduate Aaron Potts, turned its showroom into a mini runway — models lined up, primed to strut down across the white room. Nobis, a Canada-based outerwear brand and NYMD sponsor, fanned its models out across a platform elevated to three different levels, complete with an artificial fire pit with flames that lapped virtual logs. Terry Singh NYC featured models posing as partners and families, conversing with each other naturally as attendees wandered around the space.