NYMD: New and old brands alike reimagine the future of menswear

During New York Men’s Day, labels explored new definitions of menswear and gender-neutral clothing, breaking conventions with bold colors and audacious designs.

Linsey Liao, Staff Writer

February 13, 2023

A group of models stand in a semi-circle formation wearing black and red outfits. One model walks from the circle into the middle of the room. Above him is a large, round light fixture hanging from the ceiling. — A. Potts, Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, New York Men's Day. (Samson Tu for WSN)

Above the airy floors of Daylight Studio on the morning of Feb. 10, a party had just begun. Models flaunted their labels’ newest, boldest designs across showrooms enveloped in high ceilings and crowds of attendees gathering for New York Men’s Day on the first day of the 2023 Fall/Winter New York Fashion Week.

A group of models stand in a diagonal line. Most wear black-and-white outfits, with one model in the back wearing black and red. — A. Potts, Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, New York Men's Day. (Samson Tu for WSN)

NYMD, a biannual collective fashion initiative, was created by Agentry PR founder Erin Hawker in 2014. This year’s fashion show marked the 19th season of the program’s effort to highlight emerging talent and catalyze exposure for menswear and gender-fluid fashion. Each season, brands showcase their collections over two-hour periods, granting buyers and media alike spatial freedom as they make their way through the rooms at their own speed.

A group of nine models wear various black, white and silver outfits. In the background are leafless, brown trees. — Atelier Cillian, Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, New York Men's Day. (Samson Tu for WSN)

This year, NYMD featured 12 brands, including six new menswear or genderless clothing lines and four returning brands. Compared to traditional runway shows, the showroom presentation proved to be more intimate. The morning show featured clothing from seven studios, including NYMD sponsors CROSS EYED MOOSE and Nobis, along with returning labels such as A.Potts and Atelier Cillian.

Seven models stand in a line, each wearing jackets, pants and beanies in various colors. Behind them is an LED display with sketches of a ski-lift and trees. — Nobis, Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, New York Men's Day. (Samson Tu for WSN)

CROSS EYED MOOSE made its debut in a flurry of earth tones, puffers and cargos. Appealing to lovers of the great outdoors while remaining ever-polished, their collection was powerful in its ability to reimagine and embody gorpcore.

Four models stand in a line in a white room with large windows in the back. The model on the far left is wearing a black and orange jacket, black pants and black boots. The second model on the left wears a gray hoodie, blue and black puffer jacket, brown pants and white shoes. The model on the far right wears a long-sleeve maroon shirt, a patterned button-up shirt and pants, black boots, white sunglasses and a black baseball cap. The second model on the right wears a black, long-sleeved shirt, a maroon button-up shirt on top, brown pants and white boots. — CROSS EYED MOOSE, Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, New York Men's Day. (Samson Tu for WSN)

One model wore a blue button-down layered over a neon yellow turtleneck, with flecks of yellow on the unbuttoned top drawing the eye to the brightness underneath. Browns, greens and nude tones blended with vibrant colors in a satisfying strike of hues that melted coolly into each outfit. Each color palette was complemented by small accents, such as neon orange drawstrings on a camo puffer that matched orange cargo pants or white steampunk sunglasses that matched the shade of the model’s boots.

Three models are pictured. The model to the right is wearing an orange jacket, a brown vest, brown pants, brown boots and white sunglasses. The model to the left is wearing a brown shirt, brown and beige pants and brown shoes. The model in the middle is wearing all white — a shirt, a jacket, pants, boots and sunglasses. — CROSS EYED MOOSE, Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, New York Men's Day. (Samson Tu for WSN)

A model stands at the forefront of the image, wearing a black patterned blazer and black skirt. Two models wearing black dresses and orange blazers stand to the left. A third model is a child and stands in between the other two. To the right is another model in a black-and-white outfit. — Terry Singh, Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, New York Men's Day. (Samson Tu for WSN)

Another brand with an outstanding debut this year was all beneath heaven, an organic, gender-neutral, Los Angeles-based brand designed by Jimmy Alexander. In front of a backdrop of mirrored panels, Alexander’s pieces refused to stay still. The models were dancing, making gestures and interacting with each other, with the motion paralleling their outfits. All beneath heaven was all things whimsical, with vivacious colors in a variety of prints and fabrics topped off with bright face paints and orange ankle-high toe socks.

Four models stand in front of a mirror. The two on the right wear white jackets and blazers. The third from the right wears a purple and green full-body work suit depicting a ladder extending into the sky. The model on the right wears a pink crop top and white shorts.

Four models stand in front of a mirror. The two on the right wear oversized, colorful patterned shirts. The two on the left wear white jackets and blazers.

A group of models is pictured standing in front of a large mirror. The models are dressed in clownlike outfits, and the designer, dressed in a patterned purple suit, stands in the middle, directing the models. — All Beneath Heaven, Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, New York Men's Day. (Samson Tu for WSN)

Drastically different from the almost whimsical, poetic nature of all beneath heaven was Kent Anthony’s concise but elegant black and nude collection, featuring snug-fitting dress pants, peacoats and leather loafers. One model was draped in a waist-length cotton two-piece with folds hemmed on the sides as well as a big collar, which accentuated their figure and drew attention to their broadened shoulders. By completing the look with high-waisted jeans and two straps of fabric flowing down from the inner shirt, Anthony proves that shape doesn’t need to be boring.

Seven models standing in a line pose for a picture, wearing black-and-white semi-formal pieces. — Kent Anthony, Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, New York Men's Day. (Samson Tu for WSN)

Returning brands were bold in their deliverance. A.Potts, established by The New School’s Parsons School of Design graduate Aaron Potts, turned its showroom into a mini runway — models lined up, primed to strut down across the white room. Nobis, a Canada-based outerwear brand and NYMD sponsor, fanned its models out across a platform elevated to three different levels, complete with an artificial fire pit with flames that lapped virtual logs. Terry Singh NYC featured models posing as partners and families, conversing with each other naturally as attendees wandered around the space.

A model stands at the forefront of the image, wearing a white button down shirt, a black blazer with white polka dots, and a black skirt with white polka dots. Behind him are various other models in black-and-white outfits, standing in a white room. — Terry Singh, Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, New York Men's Day. (Samson Tu for WSN)

Contact Linsey Liao at [email protected]