The MFA Fashion Design and Society program at Parsons the New School for Design is the only program of its kind in the world. The first graduating class of the MFA program showcased their exclusive designs during their Spring/ Summer 2013 show.
Although each designer had his or her personal vision, the show in its entirety embodied the many facets of the global society that inspired the designers. Perhaps the most thought provoking of the show was Lucia Cuba Oroza’s collection of Andean “pollera” inspired dresses. “Articulo 6” in the General Health Law of Peru inspired the entire collection. However, even though “Articulo 6”states that the people of Peru have the right to choose the contraceptive method they prefer, the government has forcibly sterilized many Peruvian women. The designer used cotton twill and cotton canvas printed using the testimonies of victims, political speeches, and images representing this blatant violation of human right’s. During the show, the way Oroza tied the cotton belts on the dresses was compelling and represented the bondage of the many Peruvian women forcibly sterilized.
Menswear inspired pieces was very evident in both Jun Juyeon Hong and Qianyan Zhao’s collections. Hong’s pieces were baggy and the fabric was heavy. On the other hand, Zhao’s pieces were uniformly black and meticulously tailored. Although Zhao’s collection was sharp and constructed perfectly it was quickly overpowered. Sinéad Lawlor’s print was the most memorable of the show. Button print in bright orange, pink, and blue along with some lace and rhinestone detail composed the simple tunics, skinny leg pants, and simple jackets.
Designers, Mayumi Yamamoto, Beckett Fogg, and Ruby Hoette uniformly used gauzy sheer fabrics in neutrals throughout the show. Yamamoto’s collection was romantic and chilling. Neutral sheer fabrics were beautifully draped into Victorian style dresses. Flower embroidery was juxtaposed with tattered and burnt layers embodying the designers inspiration: Persephone, the queen of the underworld.
Collectively known as the “first eighteen” the new up and coming designers have lived up to the extremely high expectations of the global fashion community.
Jordan Grace is a contributing writer. Email her at [email protected]
